Didn’t we have a lovely time the day we went to Bangor …?

‘Moorish’ staircase at Penrhyn

I can’t tell you how annoyed with myself I am for remembering this song (and the Barron Knights parody, which as a child I had thought was hilarious) as it’s been a continual Ohrwurm for my whole trip to Wales.  Anyway, back to Bangor or more precisely the amazing duo of Penrhyn and Plas Newydd. When Justin Albert, our new INTO Director and National Trust Director for Wales, heard I’d hardly visited the country, he suggested a trip up to North Wales.  Call it an induction. Also a great opportunity to show Katie, our US/ICOMOS intern, some operational activity in two very different properties.

First to Penrhyn. It was raining when we arrived at Bangor station. A little surprising given the blissful weather we’ve be enjoying. We hopped in a cab (driver Mark regaled us with tales of his time working in West Africa … ) and met up with Richard, the Penrhyn General Manager, and Adam, the Assistant Director of Operations, for lunch. Luckily for us, we had bumped into a group of National Specialists on the train and were treated to an in depth visit of the austere castle.   Christopher, the NT’s Furniture Curator, had been based in Wales the 1980s and well recalled the huge amounts of conservation work that had been needed to recapture some of the Victorian ‘bling’ lost when the house was used as the HQ of the Daimler Motor Company.  The Drawing Room had been painted white and used as a typing pool but a scrap of fabric was found on an old settee being used as a garden swing from which the magnificent red silk brocade was recreated in Paris.

Built in the 1840s on the profits of slavery (the family owned plantations in Jamaica) and a slate mine (clearly visible from the Castle – so that Lord Penrhyn could keep an eye on the workers?), Penrhyn is something of a folly, a Victorian castle built in brick and faced in stone. So large that the family only managed to keep it going for 100 years before it was requisitioned in World War 2 and passed to the National Trust in lieu of death duties in 1951.   The Trust now opens an astonishing 60 rooms to the public, including magnificent kitchens, the dilapidated keep which once accommodated the children and the roof, by special tour.   But there are more spaces, many in an even sadder state of repair, upon which Richard was seeking the advice of the National Specialists.  We talked about layered interpretation depending on who the visitor had come to see (Lord and Lady Penrhyn or the housemaid?), the possibility of European projects and links with Ireland, Scotland and the Caribbean through INTO.

Originally we had thought that NT Wales might be a more comprehensible case study (in size and scale) for our INTO members, but increasingly we understood that the Trust in Wales could not survive without financial support from the centre. No chance of Wales devolving just yet!

After a night at Bangor University, we called up our friendly taxi driver, Mark of Bangor and Sierra Leone, and headed across the Menai Strait to Plas Newydd. The weather looked more promising and after a wonderful long conversation with Nerys, the General Manager and Paul, the Head Gardener, we set off to explore the grounds.

Wow! The setting of Plas Newydd is simply stunning.   My new favourite National Trust property. Nestling on the edge of the Menai Strait on the island of Anglesey, the views of Snowdonia are sublime and the garden with its Italianate terrace, array of hydrangeas and beautiful lawn rolling down to the water’s edge (essential to those under 11¾!) is delicious.   We talked about a possible exchange with the National Trust of Western Australia (Plas Newydd has an Australasian arboretum) and about innovative American interpretation techniques. We also saw the amazing Marine Heat Pump.

Marine Heat Pump, Plas Newydd

After a bite to eat and a visit to the shop (local produce – sea salt and liquor – purchased, check!), we set off with Nerys around the house. Nerys is clearly passionate about Plas Newydd, the Trust and Lord Anglesey and her enthusiasm was infectious.   It was lovely to hear stories of the various Marquesses of Anglesey – the first, who lost a leg commanding the Cavalry at Waterloo (one of his wooden legs is on display in the military museum), the fifth, who enjoyed performing his ‘butterfly dance’ at shows in the theatre he created in the house and left the family penniless, and the seventh who gave Plas Newydd to the Trust in the 1970s and continued to live in an apartment there until 2013 when he sadly died (even his battered old car is still in the car park!).

The affection in which the donor family is held shines through the whole house and we were treated to a special view of rooms Nerys hopes to open to the public very shortly. The 7th Marquess’s study with its worn out spaces under the many desks (where Lord A rubbed his feet), piles of papers, stamps and pens, a hint of cigar smoke. A wonderful insight into this man for all seasons.  We also had a peek around the cellars where valuers are looking at chattels, some of which may be granted to the Trust as ‘Acceptance in Lieu’ (of inheritance tax).   Much beautiful silver, the cushion upon which Lord A carried the crown of Edward VIII at his investiture as Prince of Wales in 1911, even Napoleon’s spyglass from Waterloo …

The tour finishes with the phenomenal Rex Whistler mural in the dining room. Tis rumoured that Whistler had the hots for Charlotte Paget, sister of th3 6th Marquess, whom he painted many times. He certainly went to town on the mural which includes vignettes of Charlotte, himself, the 7th Marquess as a boy, the family’s dogs; even the first Marquess has a cameo appearance.

All in all, a wonderful, interesting and inspiring visit to North Wales. Thanks to everyone to made it happen and I hope it has opened the door for future INTO co-operations.

Anyone brave/foolish enough can can check out the Barron Knights’ 1980 track, Never Mind the Presents …